From a newspaper article – 12th of August 1963. The library was located on Church Street at this time. (supplied by Anna Collins)

“In the North Cork town of Newmarket they are telling the story of the literary pig which insisted, despite locked doors and well-secured windows in getting into the local library and browsing among the books.

The pig broke loose from the town mart and toured a number of streets before it decided to visit the library.

Finding the door locked it took a ‘running jump’ at the closed window and landed on the floor of the fiction department in a shower of flying glass.

With its head bloody but unbowed, the pig abandoned the works of fiction after a brief perusal of the titles. With a cursory inspection of the department of English literature, it turned up its nose and went to the shelves carrying volumes on European history.

It was then that the Librarian, Mr. Patrick O’Shea, arrived and when aid was summoned the loudly protesting pig was borne back to the less literate companions at the mart”

Elizabeth Aldworth (1695-1775), born the Hon. Elizabeth St. Leger, was known as “The Lady Freemason”, the only woman ever to be initiated into Regular Freemasonry.

There was a plaque erected at the new St. Finbarre’s Cathedral by the Masons of Cork, which reads:

In Pious Memory of

The Honorable
ELIZABETH ALDWORTH,
Wife of
RICHARD ALDWORTH,
Of Newmarket Court, Co. Cork, Esq.,
Daughter of
ARTHUR, FIRST VISCOUNT DONERAILE.
Her Remains Lie Close to This Spot.
Born 1695, Died 1775.
Initiated into Masonry in
Lodge No. 44, at Doneraile Court
In this County, A.D. 1712

Among the funeral certificates in the Herald’s College is the following:

“Sir Richard Aldworth of Newmarket Co. Cork. Knt, Provost Marshal of Prov. of Munster. dec. at Dublin 21 June 1629. He married Anne Merwin, no issue, bur. in Christ Church Newmarket”

“The Ancient and Present state of the County and City of Cork” by Charles Smith M.D. (published 1749)

Description of Newmarket and Kanturk taken from the above. This account was written c1749.

“Five measured English miles west of Kanturk is Newmarket, the last place of note in the north-west part of the county. It is adorned with a stately house of Boyle Aldworth esq. composed of two regular fronts of hewn stone, which stands on the south-east of the town. Newmarket consists of one regular street and is a considerable thoroughfare into the county of Kerry. In it are some well looking houses and a decent parish Church. To the west of this place and on the left hand side of the road to Blackwater Bridge stands Castle MacAuliff formerly the chief seat of the sept, and there is also another of their castles at Carrigacushin a mile north-east of Newmarket”

“The town of Kanturk is in a thriving condition, several well built houses have been erected in it, there is a neat market-house but no church nearer than Newmarket. It is tolerably well peopled by persons employed in the worsted manufacture.”

From an old friend who in exile
Now for many years has toiled
Come to me news interesting,
In a letter travel soiled,
Of the scenes met in his wandering
And each alien custom too,
But his heart is still o’erflowing
With the ways his childhood knew.

Life within western city
Where the heart of pleasure reigns;
Life entwined with strange adventure
On Oregan’s boundless plains;
Years spent in unbroken silence
With all friends at home but, yet,
One haunt of his early boyhood
He does not to-day forget.

In a plaintive style he queries
If the woods are still the same;
Is the old horse chestnut blooming
On whose bark he carved his name?
Is the rock on Sunday evening
Still a cherished rendezvous
And the valley as attractive
As it used to be to view?

Does the gloomey old Ghost’s Parlour
Still hang out o’er Daloo’s wave,
Or has time left yet unaltered
Lovers’ seat and Meelin’s Cave?
Do the lads in summer twighlight
Gather to the Island Kiln
And is ‘Pata’ in the homeland
For to throw the big weight still?

Thus run on this exile’s questions,
Thus his memories have told
That his heart is still in Erin
While he works for foreign gold
And the lessons that were nutured
Here within his guileless breast
Cling to-day like ivy tendrils
Round him in the far-off West.

Ah, dear friend, works built by nature
Time but rarely overthrows
And your homeland’s golden beauty
Each day only fairer grows.
Those dear places in your visions
No despoiling hand has seen.
Let them rest within your fancy
Brighter now than they have been.

by James Curran

This poem was written by James Curran who lived on the margin of the Island Wood. He was one of a small group of local poets that contributed poems to the Cork Weekly Examiner, a publication, that began in 1896 and continued well into the 20th Century.

We’re assembled in New York exiles all from Rebel Cork,
And we’re proud of the flag that o’er us waves.
But to-night our mem’ries turn to the spot where we were born,
To the dear old town that never nursed a slave

Chorus:
UP! UP! Newmarket say the exiles,
UP! UP! Newmarket say they all.
Whether we shall here remain or return home again,
May Newmarket always rise but never fall.

In the lovely Island Wood where with pride we often stood,
Gazing on the scenic beauty all around.
And its rambling up Scarteen, Barleyhill and Meens between,
Oh! What pleasure and contentment there we found.

(Repeat Chorus after each verse)

Boston boasts of Bunker Hill; brave men fought at Gettysville.
Newmarket too, has honours like the rest.
Here ‘t was Curran first drew breath; after Emmet’s tragic death
They laid his sweetheart Sarah here to rest.

When the beagles’ bugle horn woke the hills on Sunday Morn
Brennan and Pat Williams made the pace.
How the hounds would yelp and howl, run their chase into the ground!
And we followed in the rapture of the chase.

And when after ’98 the Croppies were all bate,
The Whiteboys held their ground on Scarteen Hill.
Three brave priests were martyred there and and their last words were a prayer
For the land they fondly loved and we love still.

by Dan O’Connell

Dan O’Connell, a native of the Island, wrote the ballad while in exile in New York.

As Recorded in the Archaeological Inventory of Co. Cork
Vol. IV – North Cork, Parts 1 & 2

1. Glentanemacelligot. No recorded sites.
2. Glennamucklagh West. No recorded sites
3. Glennamucklagh East. 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Possible Ringfort; Standing Stone.
4. Taur More. Burial Ground; Cairn; 2 Enclosures; Fulacht Fiadh; Limekiln; Possible Ringfort.
5. Blueford. Burial Ground; 4 Fulachta Fiadh.
6. Glenlara. 6 Fulachta Fiadh; Possible Souterrain; Ringfort; 3 Standing Stones; Stone Row.
7. Inchantotane. Standing Stone.
8 Barnacurra. Circular Enclosure; 2 Fulachta Fiadh; 3 Standing Stones.
9. Gortnaglogh. 2 Fulachta Fiadh.
10. Tooreencormack. Fulacht Fiadh.
11. Tooreendermot. Fulacht Fiadh.
12. Commons South. 10 Fulachta Fiadh, Standing Stone.
13. Meenatarriff. 5 Fulachta Fiadh; One-storey Vernacular House; Possible Ringfort.
14. Ballyduane South. 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Limekiln; Possible Souterrain; Standing Stone.
15. Ballyduane West. Earthwork; Enclosure; 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Limekiln; Standing Stone.
16. Ballyduane East. Fulacht Fiadh.
17. Lisdangan. Burial Ground; 7 Fulachta Fiadh; Possible Church; Possible Fulacht Fiadh; Ringfort.
18. Castlemacauliffe. Castle (site of ); Fulacht Fiadh; Possible Ringfort.
19. Clonfert. Church; Fulacht Fiadh; Graveyard; Holy Well.
20. Curraduff 12 Fulachta Fiadh; Holy Well; 2 Limekilns; Curraduff/Newmarket Bridge.
21. Coolagh. Fulacht Fiadh; Ring-Barrow; Standing Stone.
22. Meens. Cairn; Circular Enclosure; 5 Fulachta Fiadh; Limekiln; Urn Burials.
23. Island. 4 Fulachta Fiadh; Limekiln; Possible Ringfort; Possible Souterrain; Ringfort.
24. Longacre. Rectangular Enclosure.
25. Newmarket. C. of I. Church; Circular Enclosure; Fulacht Fiadh; Historic Town; R.C. Church;
Newmarket/Curraduff Bridge.
26. Scarteen Lwr. Circular Enclosure; 5 Fulachta Fiadh; One-storey Vernacular House;
3 Standing Stones; Scarteen Lwr./Curraduff Bridge.
27. Scarteen Uppr. Burial Ground; 3 Fulachta Fiadh; Possible Church; Possible Fulacht Fiadh;
Possible Ringfort.
28. Knockduff Lwr. 4 Fulachta Fiadh.
29. Liscongill. 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Ringfort; Liscongill/Cloontycommade Bridge.
30. Park. No Recorded Sites.
31. Demesne. Castle (site of); Country House.
32. Garraunawarrig Uppr. Burial Ground; Possible Church.
33. Killowen. 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Holy Well; Possible Church; Ringfort.
34. Mountkeeffe. 7 Fulachta Fiadh.
35. Duarrigle. 2 Fulachta Fiadh; Standing Stone; Ringfort; Possible Souterraain.
36 Copsefield. Fulacht Fiadh.
37. Barleyhill. 5 Fulachta Fiadh
38. Gooseberryhill. 26 Fulachta Fiadh; Linear Earthwork; Mass Rock; Possible Souterrain; Ringfort; Rectangular Enclosure; Standing Stone.
39. Meeneeshal. 9 Fulachta Fiadh; Possible Ringfort; 2 Standing Stones.

Parts of Gooseberry hill (38) & Meeneeshal (39) are in the Parish of Meelin/Rockchapel.

Provided by Raymond O’Sullivan

ANTIQUITIES

Fulacht Fiadh 137
Possible Fulacht Fiadh 2
Standing Stone 18
Cairn 2
Stone Row 1
Ring – Barrow 1
Urn Burial 1
Linear Earthwork 1
Holy Well 3
Ringfort 8
Possible Ringfort 7
Possible Souterrain 5
Enclosure 3
Circular Enclosure 4
Rectangular Enclosure 2
Burial Ground 5
Castle (site of ) 2
Mass Rock 1
Possible Church 5
Church of Ireland Church 1
Roman Catholic Church 1
Graveyard 1
Country House 1
Historic Town 1
Bridge 4
Limekiln 7
One-storey Vernacular House 2

Total 226

One of the most notable features in the list of antiquities is the amount of Fulachta Fiadh in the Parish. Duhallow has the greatest number of them in the country with over six hundred sites recorded. With over 20% concentrated in one parish, Newmarket/Taur may well be the Fulacht Fiadh capital of Ireland.

It is very likely that the true number of Fulachta Fiadh may be even higher. Some of them are just low shapeless mounds and their usual location in wet rushy places make them quite difficult to detect. Also, anecdotal evidence would suggest that large numbers of them have been ploughed out and levelled during land reclamation in the past.

Another site type that jumps off the page is the Ringfort. Even if we take the liberty of adding in the “ possible” Ringforts we still come up with only 15, a mere 3% of the total for Duhallow. There are c.500 Ringforts recorded in the Barony.

These were the farmsteads of the Early Middle Ages (c.500A.D – 1000A.D.). Self sufficiency was the order of the day and “forts” were usually built on land that was suitable for mixed farming. That is land on which cereal crops could be grown and cattle sheep and pigs could be reared. The scarcity of Ringforts tells us something about the quality of the farmland in the parish. Or at least how it was perceived at that time

The Bridge is another site type which is obviously under represented on the list. Only 4 sites are recorded.. If you run the mind’s eye over any watercourse in the parish you will come up with more than that. There are at least eight bridges over the Mill Stream alone – some of the very modern but bridges nonetheless.

A good project for the local schools would be to record, photograph or draw the bridges in the parish and trace and name the rivers and streams. Many of the holes in the rivers also have names which would be well worth recording.

The first seven site types on the list, from the Fulacht Fiadh to the Urn Burial, probably date to the Bronze Age (2500B.C. -500B.C.). The Linear Earthwork is Iron Age and the Holy Wells probably have their origin in this period also.(500B.C.-500A.D.)

The next five, from the Ringfort to the Circular Enclosure, probably date to the EarlyChristian Period or as it is known nowadays the Early Middle Ages. The second column, from Rectangular Enclosure to One-Storey Vernacular House, probably date from the Later MiddleAges to early modern times. This chronology may not be entirely accurate. Closer inspection of each site would be required and in many cases we will have to “await the testimony of the spade.”

In the future it is hoped to look at each site type individually – to describe them and, perhaps, discuss their date and function and how they fit into the bigger picture in Duhallow . In so doing we may get a glimpse into what life was like in our parish in a long forgotten time.

By Raymond O’Sullivan

An extract from ‘Seven Cork Clerical Writers’ by James Coleman J.C.H.A.S Vol 9 1903 about Dr. William Maziere Brady who was a Vicar of Clonfert (Newmarket) in the late 1800s:

“Dr. William Maziere Brady, Cavalier of the order of Pius IX and Private Chamberlain to his holiness Leo XIII. Born in Dublin January 8th 1825, died in Rome March 19th 1894.

In 1861 Dr. Brady became Vicar of Clonfert, Co. Cork. The protestant population of the parish was 142 at this time. The annual income was £452 less a curates stipend. It was during this time as vicar of Clonfert that he published “Clerical and Parochial Records of Cork, Cloyne and Ross” (Dublin, Alexander Thom, 1863). In 1873 he was received into the Catholic church by Monsignor Kirby, rector of the Irish College of Rome. He was a staunch unionist in politics and was correspondent of the “Tablet” while in Rome”

An extract from a statistical survey of county Cork. Rev. Horatio Townsend , Statistical survey of the county of Cork, with observations of the means of improvement; : drawn up for the consideration, and by direction of the Dublin Society (1810)

“Duhallow: Towns—Manufactures—Minerals—Seats, etc.

KANTURK and Newmarket, the only towns of this barony, are situate within a short distance of each other, near that range of mountain, which divides this part of the county from Kerry. The road, that passes through these towns, was formerly the principal line of communication between the counties, and probably the primary cause of their origin. Newmarket stands upon the Allo, which after a short course runs into the Dallua, Kanturk being placed a little below their confluence. This river, which occasionally rolls a very large and rapid flood, swelled by the torrents from the neighbouring mountains, falls into the Blackwater at Bantyre.

….

Newmarket, possessing nothing deserving of notice as a town, is chiefly remarkable for being the seat of the old and respectable family of Aldwortb, who have here a large and handsome mansion house, with very extensive grounds well planted and inclosed. Of the state of these, it is sufficient to say that they are in the occupation of Richard Aidworth, Esq. who is justly esteemed one of the best and most enterprizing agriculturists in the county.”